Here’s something to ponder while you try to sleep tonight — is the way you’re catching Zzz aging you?
Short answer: yes. And if you’ve ever fallen down the rabbit hole of skincare subreddit groups for women in their 30s, 40s or 50s, you’ve probably already suspected as such.
Arguably, TikTok’s viral “morning shed” trend has been Gen Z’s solution for avoiding sleep wrinkles, as they’re sometimes referred to. Gaining popularity in 2024, there are thousands of videos — some with millions of views — indicating elaborate night routines including face tape, chin straps and extensive skincare products to avoid aging overnight — literally.
I’m not a Gen Zer, but I’d be lying if I said I too wouldn’t like to minimize, if not fully eradicate, fine lines and deep-set wrinkles. While we start losing collagen in our twenties, decreasing estrogen or psychological stress can also tank the protein responsible for buoyancy and firmness.
Sleep is critical to good health, including healthy skin. Naturally, it can be frustrating when we learn that resting, the act that encourages repair, can cause wrinkles, too.
So, in honor of Sleep Week and as Post Wanted’s resident beauty biohacker, I felt it my duty to investigate some of these “anti-aging” sleep products by talking to dermatologists to learn what works, what doesn’t and whether these types of lines are actually avoidable.
What are sleep wrinkles and what causes them?
“Sleep wrinkles are caused by repetitive mechanical compression and shear forces on the skin while we sleep,” explains Dr. Rachel Westbay, board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical. “Unlike expression lines, which form from muscle movement, sleep lines form from how your face is pressed into a pillow for six to eight hours a night.
“They are different from dynamic wrinkles, which are caused by repeated muscle contraction (crow’s feet, glabella), and static wrinkles, which are etched lines that persist due to collagen loss and aging. Sleep wrinkles, on the other hand, are mechanical.”
Most of us have experienced waking up with pillow creases across our faces. When we’re younger, these lines, thanks to our collagen, smooth out on their own. “Over time, as collagen and elastin decline, temporary morning creases stop bouncing back and become permanent,” says Dr. Westbay, but adds that “prevention is absolutely possible.”
How You Sleep Matters
“Side and stomach sleeping create consistent folding of the skin in the same direction night after night,” shares Dr. Westbay. “Common areas we see sleep wrinkles are the vertical cheek lines, diagonal lines across the décolletage, nasolabial fold exaggeration on one side, periorbital (around the eye) crinkling, jawline, and chest and cleavage lines, especially in side sleepers.”
For this reason, many dermatologists will advocate for sleeping on one’s back, as it reduces facial pressure that results in creasing.
“Prevention centers on different strategies,” explains Dr. Hallie McDonald, board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of ERLY. “First, protect collagen. Daily sunscreen, topical retinoids, and antioxidant use are foundational. Second, optimize sleep position. Sleeping on your back minimizes facial compression. That is not realistic for everyone, but it is the most effective mechanical prevention.”
While both men and women can experience sleep wrinkles, it’s more likely to impact women, especially as they experience hormonal changes in their 30s.
“[Sleep wrinkles] tend to impact women more, and certainly after estrogen hormones decrease,” explains New York City’s Board-certified Dermatologist and Aesthetics Expert, Dr. Rachel Nazarian, MD, FAAD. As skin thins, it becomes more susceptible to wrinkle formation.
Along with preventing facial sleep wrinkles, sleeping on one’s back can also keep V-lines from falling between the cleavage. “Women are also more likely to form chest wrinkles as the breasts can apply mechanical pressure to the skin when women sleep on their side or stomachs.”
How to sleep on your back?
According to Harvard Health, 60% of adults sleep on their side, so you’re not alone if you prefer snoozing in a fetal position. However, training oneself to sleep on one’s back is possible.
Based on recommendations from the Sleep Foundation, using a pillow beneath your legs or lower back may be all it takes to keep you comfortable enough to stay on your back through the night.
Surrounding yourself with pillows may also help. Sometimes referred to as the “cocoon method,” the idea of this is to gently barricade yourself so you can’t turn to the left or right. While it may not be practical for those sharing a bed with a partner, it can be helpful for those who have the bedspace to experiment.
Preventing sleep wrinkles: What works
Whether you already have a few sleep wrinkles or are hoping to avoid them altogether, there are a few products, as well as treatments, that can help.
At-Home Products
Silk Pillowcases and Sleep Pillows
“One of my favorite options,” says Dr. Nazarian of silk pillows. “It’s easy, risk-free, and does a great job of decreasing surface tension and allowing skin to glide over the pillowcase, decreasing the tugging, pulling and creasing that often leads to wrinkle formation.”
“Silk pillowcases reduce friction compared to cotton,” adds Dr. McDonald. “They may also help reduce hair breakage and frizz.”
While swapping your regular pillowcase for this fancier material won’t prevent all wrinkles (remember, static wrinkles are also still a thing), the switch can create a more supportive environment, keeping skincare products on your face instead of your bedding. It will also be less damaging to your skin.
Sleep pillows, designed to offer additional spinal support, may also help prevent facial sleep wrinkles — but only if they aid the sleeper in remaining on their back or include a silk pillow case covering. This will not, however, prevent sleep wrinkles on the chest.
Breast pillows and Sleep Bras
For side sleepers, especially those with larger chests, a breast pillow (a T-shaped cushion designed to sit between your breasts) may prevent or reduce the appearance of V-shaped wrinkles in the decolletage area.
“A supportive sleep bra or pillow that reduces skin folding may decrease repetitive chest wrinkling,” explains Dr. McDonald, noting that the skin in that area is often thinner due to sun damage and therefore prone to creasing.
While sleep bras are also an option, Dr. Nazarian points out that not all have anti-aging benefits. “Most of these aren’t effective enough to prevent skin folding for side sleepers, and although they’re more comfortable to sleep in, they won’t stop chest wrinkles from forming.”
If you’re especially concerned about these types of sleep wrinkles and grimace at the idea of wearing a breast pillow, avoid sports bras and similar designs that lack adequate skin support. Instead, look for options with open bust designs or Y-shaped center panels. These will keep the breasts separate and protect them from folding in on themselves during side sleeping.
Face Tape
While it may sound gimmicky, this type of anti-aging beauty product has been around for years. Frownies, known as “the original wrinkle patch,” started in 1889 and continues to be a popular choice for those looking to reduce fine lines without injectables.
Similar companies have emerged on the scene, especially in the last five years, as content creators show audiences how they use the method to target wrinkles during sleep. Does it look weird? Sure, but according to Dr. Nazarian, it can be useful.
“Although a little awkward to use, [it] can be applied to the area of the face you want to prevent wrinkles, and often does a good job of keeping skin smooth and offsetting pressure while you sleep,” she details, noting that there is also tape to combat chest wrinkles from side sleeping.
I’ve tried my share of face tape before and have found that it can make the skin appear smoother, although only temporarily.
“There is minimal scientific evidence that taping overnight prevents long-term wrinkles,” Dr. McDonald says. “It may temporarily reduce movement, similar to how Botox works by relaxing muscles, but tape does not alter muscle activity in a meaningful way.”
She also warns that some may find face taping irritating to the skin, especially around delicate areas, such as the mouth.
Topicals
Whether we’re talking sleep wrinkles or regular ones, quality skincare still plays a role in supporting skin’s repair at night.
“These are collagen problems, so treatment focuses on rebuilding structure,” shares Dr. Westbay. “Helpful ingredients for this purpose include use of a nightly retinoid (tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, etc), use of an antioxidant serum like vitamin C in the morning, wearing a daily broad-spectrum SPF, peptide creams, and hydrating moisturizers and serums to optimize barrier repair and maintain elasticity.”
Her practice offers a line of skincare and LED Light Therapy Devices, both of which I’ve had the privilege to use, but there are also options at the drugstore or that your own dermatologist can prescribe during your next visit.
How to get rid of sleep wrinkles?
In-Office Treatments
“Once sleep lines are deeply etched, they behave like static wrinkles and require collagen remodeling — skincare alone won’t erase them, says Dr. Westbay, which is where in-office treatment comes into play.
For early to mild sleep wrinkles, she recommends microneedling with and without radiofrequency. Fractional non-ablative lasers, as well as biostimulatory treatments, such as Radiesse and Sculptra, can also help.
“Fully ablative laser resurfacing can be highly effective and transformative, though it requires more downtime,” she shares for those who have deeper-set wrinkles. “Examples include CO2 laser and erbium laser (such as the Sciton Contour TRL, my personal favorite in this category). These lasers are high reward, but can also carry high risk in inexperienced hands, so choose your laser surgeon wisely.”
Even if one opts for filler, which can also offset compression lines in the cheeks, seeking out a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon. These types of treatments require a certain level of expertise and technique to achieve the most natural results as safely as possible.
While there are at-home lasers and anti-aging devices that people can also use, you’ll find the most dramatic improvement from the types of machines only available in medical offices.
What doesn’t work
Mouth tape and Mouth Guards
While many people swear by mouth tape, the dermatologists I asked about it were not impressed. “Applied to the lips to encourage nasal breathing, these items do very little to prevent wrinkles or stop skin folding and line formation,” shared Dr. Nazarian.
Mouth guards are a slightly different story. “Custom dental mouth guards are medically indicated for bruxism, or teeth grinding,” explains Dr. McDonald. “From a dermatologic standpoint, they can indirectly help prevent lower face muscle hypertrophy caused by clenching. Over time, chronic clenching can contribute to a bulky masseter muscle and a wider jaw appearance.”
However, she also points out that over-the-counter items for aesthetics aren’t necessary unless one grinds their teeth. “If bruxism is present, a dentist-fitted guard is absolutely worthwhile for dental health and may have secondary aesthetic benefits.”
Chin Straps
In the pursuit of a “snatched jaw,” some are turning to chin straps, which act similarly to a girdle but for the face. “There is no strong evidence that they create permanent lifting or prevent jowls,” Dr. McDonald says of the trend. “Most of the effect is temporary fluid redistribution.” She also warns that if worn too tightly, the devices can cause jaw discomfort and breakouts.
Dr. Nazarian agrees that these are minimally helpful in preventing sleep wrinkles. “These masks are often too thin to offset the pressure of side sleepers or stomach-sleepers, and facial wrinkles can still form.”
Avoiding wrinkles altogether, whether it be from sleep or simply living, may be more effort than some may care to exert. But like brushing our teeth or exercising, developing good habits and practices can set your skin up for future success as you age.
Here are some actionable tips, per Dr. Westbay:
- Train yourself to sleep on your back
- Use a silk pillowcase.
- Maintain strong collagen by using sunscreen daily, as well as adding retinoid to your routine
- Stay well hydrated
- Avoid face-smashing pillows
- Consider supportive pillows that reduce side pressure
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